I wasn’t able to sleep on the plane.

I’ve always been able to sleep on flights. Years ago, I traveled from Phoenix to Baltimore very often. I’d read a book for two hours and sleep for three hours. I’d arrive refreshed and ready to see everyone! This time, I’m not sure what happened.

Maybe I was giddy with excitement. Maybe my chair was uncomfortable. Poor Brian had to put up with my tossing and turning. We watched the sunrise over France and I imagined myself in one of those movies where the red line shows the plane going from New York to Europe. It was my turn to be the one in the plane!

Morning

Our hotel was located across the piazza from the Pantheon.

Hotel Abruzzi was outstanding – location, service, cleanliness, breakfast, view! Our neighbors stayed in this hotel on their honeymoon and I am so thankful they shared this gem with us!

We left our luggage at the front desk and walked across the street to tour the Pantheon. I was amazed with the opening at the very top of the dome. Brian was in awe of the ancient Egyptian obelisk just outside. (We wanted to write down what we were both most impressed with at each location, but apparently we were so impressed by everything – this is the only time we remembered to do that!)

Next, we decided to take a short walk that morning and head to the Trevi Fountain.

Julia had told us to never walk by a church without heading inside, so we took a detour just a few minutes into our walk. It was St. Ignatius of Loyola! The dome of this church is an illusion – it is actually flat! Julia had told us about this and I couldn’t believe I was standing there, in the same place she had been! Everything seemed magical.

We made it to an incredibly crowded Trevi Fountain, but it was nice to be among happy crowds after the pandemic.

Then, we briefly visited the church of St. Vincent and St. Anastasia.

We walked back towards the hotel and decided to eat at Restaurant of Savatino just outside of St. Ignatius of Loyola.

I was finally able to fall asleep and we took a much needed nap.

Evening

That evening we headed out to wander the Piazza Navona. We found Church of St. Louis of the French and I was able to make confession. He was a young priest and spoke English with a very thick French accent. His joy at my confession made me weep. He was kind and spoke with tenderness. He encouraged me to love my husband more deeply and said that he was so pleased that I was in Rome. He told me that ‘The Holy Spirit will put a light in you.’ I was overcome with joy and hope, vowing to give the Holy Spirit a very special place in my heart – a home that I would carry with me from then on.

We walked over to the Piazza Navona. I stood in awe of Fountain of the Four Rivers. My 9th grade humanities project had included researching Bernini’s work. Like most art, pictures don’t do it justice.

St. Agnes was closed, so we wandered the Piazza. There was another small church across the piazza and we walked in. They had just begun Mass. There were two priests. As we shyly walked in, trying not to disturb anyone, we noticed only one other person in the congregation. I carefully watched and tried to keep up in English. One of my favorite things about the Catholic church is that the order of the Mass and the Prayers are universal. They are the same from church to church, which made it very easy for me to follow along. During the consecration of the Holy Eucharist, the older priest was on his tiptoes with excitement. He enthusiastically said every word and looked at the Host with utmost admiration.

I was overcome with the thought that even if you are the only person attending Mass, Jesus comes for you. He gives His body and His blood for you. For YOU.

The church was dark and holy. We learned later that it is named Nostra Signora del Sacro Cuore a Piazza Navona (Our Lady of the Sacred Heart) and is a convent.

We ate a delicious dinner at Quelli de Coronari and walked back to Hotel Abruzzi.